Sorry if I haven't been able to blog the past few weeks, work has been crazy still. And now for Thanksgiving, somehow I wound up in Miami....where it's sunny and 80....:-)
Anyway, it's that time of the year again.....
BLACK FRIDAY!!!!
Uggghhhh. I don't like Black Friday. See one of my first posts as to why.
I'll admit tho, I will try to make it out there tomorrow morning. But only for one thing and one thing alone: Pants.
Yes. I need new jeans. Old Navy has a deal on Black Friday where you can get the new Lego Rock Band for free if you buy $20 worth of stuff, which isn't hard at Old Navy. If anything, you could go to an old navy, then take the game to Gamestop and sell it to them for $25, and you just got yourself a free pair of pants.
And that's pretty much it. Well, maybe somewhere else depending on where I get dragged to with my friend here in Miami...
A bit of a warning for those of you who go out or are planning on spending themselves into the red this year:
-Compare online before you buy in store. Some things are actually cheaper online than on black friday. Blu-Ray players and bluetooth earpieces come to mind.
-It's a good Black Friday for video games. Gamestop has a 360 Elite with 3 good games for 300, or PS3 120gb with 3 good games for 300. While you could get this on Amazon (or something close to it), you could have this one RIGHT NOW.
-Avoid big box retailers like Walmart. With so many people fighting for so few items, it's just not worth the hassle.
-Go in groups with friends and keep cell phones on to keep track of each other.
-In regards to the friends, make sure they are the kind of friends that do not like shopping. That means they'll get what they need, pay for it, and leave. No hanging around and dealing with the crazy people.
-If you can't deal with it, just stay at home. Is it really worth getting push around and waking up at an unGodly hour just to save 30 bucks?
More to follow later. Happy Tofurkey day!
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Friday, November 13, 2009
Gaming prices have hidden costs
Sorry for the lateness in posting. Work got insane and I had end of the year deadlines for work....
So just recently Walmart had this crazy deal for a Microsoft Xbox 360 for $200 plus $100 giftcard. People were talking about it all over the internet. Great deal but it brings to light one of the issues I have with the 360 which is both a good and bad thing: buying seperate components.
Let's compare the game consoles:
Wii
With the wii, there is only one version and one version alone. You do not get a hard drive, wireless is built in, that's it. Very simple and straightforward. $200 nets you the standard gear and lets you fully enjoy all your crappy minigames.
PS3
Yes, there are multiple version of the ps3 in the beginning, which was REALLY ANNOYING, and certain versions had variations, such as the number of usb ports, flash reader, and I think the very first one did not come with wifi. I'm ignoring the backwards compatibility at this point, as I think Sony has dropped the idea as a feature, even though I still use mine to play PS2 games on a regular basis. However, they did not cripple their systems to monetize them later. The one without wifi cannot ever have wifi built into it, same with the usb ports (although you can buy or get free usb hubs), and the hard drive can be swapped out for any 5400 RPM notebook hard drive. They cut out features to save on cost. At this point though, I think the only difference between the newest version of the PS3 is simply hard drive size. But you can buy the smallest version and it'll play your games and do stuff just fine for $300 even.
360
This is what bugs me: they sell different versions with different features and allow you to upgrade your slightly inferior systems at a price. Take a look at the Arcade unit. It has no hard drive to store data, so your save games need to be on a card and games will take longer to load instead of being installed to your console, no wifi to connect so you'll need to have a cable actually plugged into your hub/router. Both the Wii and PS3 have wifi, why not the 360????
Now, let's take the $200 arcade unit, with the $100 discount. You'll need an additional $60 to $120 for a hard drive to install games, save files, etc. In addition you'll need another $100 for a wifi adapter unless you can plug it in to your router. Also, you'll need to shell out another $50 for online service. It's not cheap, and it might be worth it, but it's not the homerun people have talked about. Also, be on the lookout for cheap systems on craigslist and the like. Recently Microsoft has banned many users for pirating games, rendering their systems unable to connect online at all to download patches, new content, or play online. So that cheap 360 elite with controllers may not be a good deal for you...
I'll try to get another post up soon, I'm stuck here an extra day, possibly two, and I'm not going anywhere with 2ft of snow everywhere outside. Stay smart, stay cheap.
So just recently Walmart had this crazy deal for a Microsoft Xbox 360 for $200 plus $100 giftcard. People were talking about it all over the internet. Great deal but it brings to light one of the issues I have with the 360 which is both a good and bad thing: buying seperate components.
Let's compare the game consoles:
Wii
With the wii, there is only one version and one version alone. You do not get a hard drive, wireless is built in, that's it. Very simple and straightforward. $200 nets you the standard gear and lets you fully enjoy all your crappy minigames.
PS3
Yes, there are multiple version of the ps3 in the beginning, which was REALLY ANNOYING, and certain versions had variations, such as the number of usb ports, flash reader, and I think the very first one did not come with wifi. I'm ignoring the backwards compatibility at this point, as I think Sony has dropped the idea as a feature, even though I still use mine to play PS2 games on a regular basis. However, they did not cripple their systems to monetize them later. The one without wifi cannot ever have wifi built into it, same with the usb ports (although you can buy or get free usb hubs), and the hard drive can be swapped out for any 5400 RPM notebook hard drive. They cut out features to save on cost. At this point though, I think the only difference between the newest version of the PS3 is simply hard drive size. But you can buy the smallest version and it'll play your games and do stuff just fine for $300 even.
360
This is what bugs me: they sell different versions with different features and allow you to upgrade your slightly inferior systems at a price. Take a look at the Arcade unit. It has no hard drive to store data, so your save games need to be on a card and games will take longer to load instead of being installed to your console, no wifi to connect so you'll need to have a cable actually plugged into your hub/router. Both the Wii and PS3 have wifi, why not the 360????
Now, let's take the $200 arcade unit, with the $100 discount. You'll need an additional $60 to $120 for a hard drive to install games, save files, etc. In addition you'll need another $100 for a wifi adapter unless you can plug it in to your router. Also, you'll need to shell out another $50 for online service. It's not cheap, and it might be worth it, but it's not the homerun people have talked about. Also, be on the lookout for cheap systems on craigslist and the like. Recently Microsoft has banned many users for pirating games, rendering their systems unable to connect online at all to download patches, new content, or play online. So that cheap 360 elite with controllers may not be a good deal for you...
I'll try to get another post up soon, I'm stuck here an extra day, possibly two, and I'm not going anywhere with 2ft of snow everywhere outside. Stay smart, stay cheap.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Why rebates suck and HDTVs are mad cheap now
The comic above pretty much sums up my feelings about rebates. I've been seeing them a lot lately and it's been pissing me off. Back in the day, I used to do them for a lot of things, from computer parts, to tvs, lcds, everything.
The concept behind a rebate is simple (I'm using an example from a purchase I made):
1. Pay the MSRP now for a keyboard, which is 90 bucks (old school Logitech MX Cordless Duo Elite Keyboard and Mouse...props to my bro for that one)
2. Store gives you a rebate or the package comes with a coupon for 30 bucks.
3. Send the manufacturer (in this case Logitech) the coupon along with the cutout of the barcode on the side of the box and your reciept to show you bought it.
4. Wait 12 weeks
5. Company sends you check for 30 bucks
6. Cash it in and you saved 30 bucks from your original purchase!
Why does this work? Companies will often do this to give you an incentive to purchase their product over a rivals. They know that their product will depreciate over a certain period of time so the value of the item will be less later anyway, so they'd rather have you you to pay the current amount and give you back that difference later just to claim a sale. This is the economical explanation at least. However, this isn't the best way to make money obviously since it cuts into your company's bottom line. That's where there darkside of the equation comes in, as according to this article from consumer reports, 40% of all rebates are never claimed. Companies take advantage of these people to make some of their money back. So what do they do to try to fluff out their margins on this? A couple things:
1. Make the time frame really short on the consumer end. Sometimes you only have a window a week or two to send it out. Let's face it: we have more important things to do.
2. Make some weird or somewhat difficult requirement. Or maybe you threw out the box and therefore lost the UPC code. After all, who keeps the box after they open something? Sometimes you have to go online and fill out a form to print out to send along with your coupon.
3. Make you wait a really long time and hope you forget about it. This goes back to the 40% number, but it could even be more sinister. Seriously, some companies will say that they've "lost" your paperwork and hope you've forgotten it until after the deadline has passed.
A few years back the Wall Street Journal did an experiment to try to buy different items and see if the rebates come back. You can find the article here. The result? Out of 5 rebates, only ONE worked without requiring intervention by the reporter. Check out the graph below from the article:
Sucks huh? So what can you do to protect yourself?
1. Don't play the rebate game. When looking at prices for stuff, ignore the rebates. You don't want to deal with the hassle and whatever money you might save you might not get.
2. Do the rebate ASAP. The longer you wait, the more likely you're gonna lose out on the money.
3. Keep track of your rebates in a spreadsheet. That way, when the time is ticking, you'll know when you need to call them and pester them about your rebate.
4. Keep copies of EVERYTHING. Document, document, document.
I stay out of the rebate process nowadays. Getting too lazy to try to save that much, plus I don't deal well with customer support. But it's still an option if you think you can pull it off. And sometimes, well, it's hard to say no to a $100 rebate on something you really want, like an external Hard Drive.
A quick note about HDTVs: DAMN THEY ARE CHEAP. I thought 800 was a good price point for a mainstream priced 42 inch tv. But I'm starting to see mainstream brands (toshiba, sharp, etc) start to dip into the Vizio price range of 600-700. Crazy.
I'll get around to writing more articles soon. Having a bug (NOT THE FLU), and Uncharted 2 out for the ps3 does not help things. Also, Modern Warfare 2 comes out next week. And I preordered the Night Vision Goggle Edition. I kid you not. Until the next article (hopefull next week in between games of MW2), stay smart and stay cheap.
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Freegeeking: how to get free stuff online
Alright, so it's been a month off, sorry. Work is busy, blah blah blah. Also, Uncharted 2 is coming out, and I need to get ready for Modern Warfare 2. I also got into Tom Clancy's EndWar, a game where you control units with your voice. And yes, it's as cool/geeky as it sounds.
Anyway, I have a fairly quick article. A random thing I've been doing lately is getting free stuff off the internet. Some websites or companies do giveaways or after completing a survey they give you free stuff online. While it does sound kinda gimmicky/cheap, there's some pretty random freebies out there...
Things I've gotten for free in the mail:
-Toilet Paper
-Granola Bars
-Cereal
-Shampoo
-Soap
-Letter Opener
-Tools
-Toothpaste
-Shaving cream
-Chewing gum
-Coupons for frozen dinners, candy, and soda, and a Whopper burger
Checking http://gizmodo.com/search/dealzmodo and checking out the lowest section (entitled 'Hobomodo'...har har) will show you the most of the free stuff or you can also book mark http://www.cheapstingybargains.com/forums/freebies/. Dealzmodos usually happen weekdays around 3pm, while the forum is constantly updated and useful for the most up to date freebies.
Often these sites will ask for personal information and your address. I'd like to point out that most of these will ship to a P.O. Box. Also, I have an email address dedicated to SPAM. *hint* *hint*.
The downside to this stuff is that they'll usually ask you for phone number, email address, and mailing address to spam you verbally, electronically, and physically via USPS. But I haven't had any serious issues so far. Basically, use your common sense: General Mills is probably okay, but some random european website for gum might be a little shady.
Anyway, it's obviously not something to depend on for stuff, but an emergency toilet paper roll is always appreciated, and I have a section in my kitchen cabinet dedicated to freebie snacks, which come in handy.
In any case, I think I'll post up the random stuff I get in the mail as I get them just to let you know. Hopefully before I've eaten it.
The next article will come soon I promise. In the mean time, stay smart and stay cheap.
Anyway, I have a fairly quick article. A random thing I've been doing lately is getting free stuff off the internet. Some websites or companies do giveaways or after completing a survey they give you free stuff online. While it does sound kinda gimmicky/cheap, there's some pretty random freebies out there...
Things I've gotten for free in the mail:
-Toilet Paper
-Granola Bars
-Cereal
-Shampoo
-Soap
-Letter Opener
-Tools
-Toothpaste
-Shaving cream
-Chewing gum
-Coupons for frozen dinners, candy, and soda, and a Whopper burger
Checking http://gizmodo.com/search/dealzmodo and checking out the lowest section (entitled 'Hobomodo'...har har) will show you the most of the free stuff or you can also book mark http://www.cheapstingybargains.com/forums/freebies/. Dealzmodos usually happen weekdays around 3pm, while the forum is constantly updated and useful for the most up to date freebies.
Often these sites will ask for personal information and your address. I'd like to point out that most of these will ship to a P.O. Box. Also, I have an email address dedicated to SPAM. *hint* *hint*.
The downside to this stuff is that they'll usually ask you for phone number, email address, and mailing address to spam you verbally, electronically, and physically via USPS. But I haven't had any serious issues so far. Basically, use your common sense: General Mills is probably okay, but some random european website for gum might be a little shady.
Anyway, it's obviously not something to depend on for stuff, but an emergency toilet paper roll is always appreciated, and I have a section in my kitchen cabinet dedicated to freebie snacks, which come in handy.
In any case, I think I'll post up the random stuff I get in the mail as I get them just to let you know. Hopefully before I've eaten it.
The next article will come soon I promise. In the mean time, stay smart and stay cheap.
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Gizmodo Gallery, cheap things to consider
Work has picked up again, and i've been busy. And much has changed
Right now there are a few things to think about for geek gadgets:
-With the PS3 now at $299, I think it's a great buy. Easily upgradeable blu-ray, great games, big roomy hard drive, and wireless, you can't get the same at that price with a 360. Speaking of which, I am still waiting to get one to play 360 games....
-On the computer side, expect prices to drop for PC hardware coming this fall. ATi just released a brand new high end 3D card, which has a tendency to cause prices for existing hardware to drop. In addition, Intel has released its new CPU architecture, which would also have the same effect for CPU prices. Also, Quad Core for under 100 bucks, though, I'm not sure Quad Core is what everyone needs right now....
-Gaming wise, there are a lot of new games on the horizon, the biggest of which is Modern Warfare 2. Expect to find discounts on a lot of other games during the holidays to give them a fighting chance at this behemoth of a game. Again, there's always Goozex...
I'll be heading to check out the Gizmodo Gallery this Saturday in NYC, should be a fun time. Stay smart and stay cheap. Look out for the next article on freegeeking soon.
Right now there are a few things to think about for geek gadgets:
-With the PS3 now at $299, I think it's a great buy. Easily upgradeable blu-ray, great games, big roomy hard drive, and wireless, you can't get the same at that price with a 360. Speaking of which, I am still waiting to get one to play 360 games....
-On the computer side, expect prices to drop for PC hardware coming this fall. ATi just released a brand new high end 3D card, which has a tendency to cause prices for existing hardware to drop. In addition, Intel has released its new CPU architecture, which would also have the same effect for CPU prices. Also, Quad Core for under 100 bucks, though, I'm not sure Quad Core is what everyone needs right now....
-Gaming wise, there are a lot of new games on the horizon, the biggest of which is Modern Warfare 2. Expect to find discounts on a lot of other games during the holidays to give them a fighting chance at this behemoth of a game. Again, there's always Goozex...
I'll be heading to check out the Gizmodo Gallery this Saturday in NYC, should be a fun time. Stay smart and stay cheap. Look out for the next article on freegeeking soon.
Monday, September 7, 2009
FreeGeeking (a first in a multipart series): TV
Hope you guys have had a lovely Labor Day. I got my outdoor fix of Whitewater Rafting in the Poconos, drinking in Philly, and a pretty sweet weekend in NYC. Anyway, with my regular trips to nyc, my gaming habits, and my food habits, my girlfriend (an investment), I've had to become an even smarter geek when it comes to saving money. You can find many websites like the consumerist or lifehacker, both of which I follow for random little tidbits. I also have some of mine which I'll add here too, as part of a little series I would like to call FreeGeeking. Enjoy.
-I was surprised that youtube has a lot of full season tv shows on it now, although most are pretty old. Everything from the old school class Star Trek series to Anime like Code Geass (both seasons and dubbed or subbed) and even the original 90210 series. I'd recommend youtube for older stuff, anime cartoons as they have a lot, and a few newer shows. Course, in the end, you can entertain yourself for a whole night on the failblog clips alone.
-Hulu is probably the one to beat right now. A small sample of shows ranges from Heroes, The Office, Lost, Ugly Betty, Grey's Anatomy, CSI, Family Guy, Gossip Girl, The Hills, It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia, Burn Notice, and Battlestar Galactica. Needless to say, virtually any show you watch on tv now is available on Hulu.
-Also, another great alternative is Netflix. For as low as 5 bucks a month, you can have a dvd a month with two exchanges and a few hours of streaming netflix (also available on 360), or 16.99 a month for 3 dvds at any time and unlimited streaming. Netflix has TV shows via dvds of most of the popular tv series, and my friends have been watching all the seasons of Law and Order: SVU on the 360 by streaming the past few weeks. Depressing, but a good show nevertheless. The only downside to this is that obviously the tv show had to have a dvd collection of it released, and netflix opted to pick it up.
-Finally for me there's sites like mysoju.com, which provide access to Asian tv shows like drama and anime. You couldn't even get this on regular tv if you wanted in the first place. It's a little grey area in terms of legitness, but it uses existing streaming sites to provide tv shows. I am not into Jdrama or Kdrama, I swear. Along those lines, there are streaming sites that offer up to date tv shows but those are almost always over night shops and disappear by the time they get popular. And there's always bittorrent.... -_-;;
How to save money the Geek (and legal) way (part one of many): TV.
The Internet is your friend. As people start to watch less and less tv and start doing more online, TV shows are starting to take notice and are going online. If you are scraping for cash, ditch the cable and keep the internet and check to see if your favorite shows can be streamed online. You can watch them any time, and if you have a PS3, 360, or wii, you can put them on your tv and it's like nothings changed:
-I was surprised that youtube has a lot of full season tv shows on it now, although most are pretty old. Everything from the old school class Star Trek series to Anime like Code Geass (both seasons and dubbed or subbed) and even the original 90210 series. I'd recommend youtube for older stuff, anime cartoons as they have a lot, and a few newer shows. Course, in the end, you can entertain yourself for a whole night on the failblog clips alone.
-Hulu is probably the one to beat right now. A small sample of shows ranges from Heroes, The Office, Lost, Ugly Betty, Grey's Anatomy, CSI, Family Guy, Gossip Girl, The Hills, It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia, Burn Notice, and Battlestar Galactica. Needless to say, virtually any show you watch on tv now is available on Hulu.
-Also, another great alternative is Netflix. For as low as 5 bucks a month, you can have a dvd a month with two exchanges and a few hours of streaming netflix (also available on 360), or 16.99 a month for 3 dvds at any time and unlimited streaming. Netflix has TV shows via dvds of most of the popular tv series, and my friends have been watching all the seasons of Law and Order: SVU on the 360 by streaming the past few weeks. Depressing, but a good show nevertheless. The only downside to this is that obviously the tv show had to have a dvd collection of it released, and netflix opted to pick it up.
-Finally for me there's sites like mysoju.com, which provide access to Asian tv shows like drama and anime. You couldn't even get this on regular tv if you wanted in the first place. It's a little grey area in terms of legitness, but it uses existing streaming sites to provide tv shows. I am not into Jdrama or Kdrama, I swear. Along those lines, there are streaming sites that offer up to date tv shows but those are almost always over night shops and disappear by the time they get popular. And there's always bittorrent.... -_-;;
More to come in my next post. Stay smart and stay cheap.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Price and other Updates
Alright, this is going to be a quick update. I've spent a week of August on vacation for my best friend's wedding, and work is hard...I need to finish my brief article on mooching online, but give me some time. I blame video games.
My girlfriend just bought a Panasonic U12 Series HDTV (42 inches) for roughly $650 for her mom.
Not a bad choice, especially if a bunch of AV Guys approve: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1139625
Probably not the best for a pro setup, but it works if you just want an overall good setup. As you can see, tv prices are dropping, and hopefully this will continue through the fall for another few weeks. If you want a tv, now is the time to get one.
Other changes:
-Goozex.com is now supporting the trading of blu-ray and dvds! Now I'm using my points to buy blu-rays that I've wanted, like Dark Knight, Iron Man, and The Watchmen. Quite handy.
-In terms of bus trips, I've confirmed that DC2NY now has both electrical outlets and wifi, so if you're up in Dupont or closer to Dupont than the Metro Center, it might be a better choice. Sadly, I'll be taking the chinatown bus to Philly tomorrow for a rafting trip, then NJTransit for New York >.<
Pray for me. Shop smart and cheap.
Friday, August 7, 2009
Buying a PC
So a good friend of mine recently asked for good brands to buy a new PC.
I didn't tell him at the time (tho he'll know now) that I bristled at the thought of buying a new computer. What I mean is, buying a machine already pre built by a company like Dell, Acer, HP, Fujitsu, etc. I'm not saying that they don't work but I am saying this about prebuilt machines:
I didn't tell him at the time (tho he'll know now) that I bristled at the thought of buying a new computer. What I mean is, buying a machine already pre built by a company like Dell, Acer, HP, Fujitsu, etc. I'm not saying that they don't work but I am saying this about prebuilt machines:
- You are forced to choose the parts that they provide to you and the boxes are tough to upgrade. Don't need that 6GB of RAM for an additional $120, or that 2nd Disc drive for an extra $30? Too bad, it's part of the package. If there's a cheaper 3D card out there that you'd rather have, you gotta stick to whatever they give you. Also, that tiny box might not fit that new 3d card you want to upgrade, or that motherboard might not support a faster processor when it comes out, leaving you in the lurch.
- They build in the cost of labor and services and warranties that you might not need. Sure, it might seem nice that they threw in the 1 year service warranty, but they take it out by adding the cost of that warranty and the labor to put your machine together in the total price of the machine. Generally, and I do mean this generally, 20-30% of the cost of a pre built machine is labor alone (wholesale prices for parts aside).
- Their tech support sucks. You know something is fishy when Leonard from Missouri speaks like he just spent all of five minutes learning English. And I'm not criticizing or being prejudice about this either. A lot of those call centers do not have the abilty to really help customers out by expediting the process, or giving actual tech help over the phone. They're just there to process the warranties if they are deemed worth it. (Funny story: in college I worked at a helpdesk and whenever we called in machines, oftentimes they tech supports would ask our Indian ITs for scores of the cricket match of the day, as they were not able to do that at their call centers)
Bottom line is, you're often paying extra for what "they" think you need. There are some benefits to this though.
- They *think* they know what you need, and for the most part, are pretty close. Most of you (and some of my friends) are not hardcore computer gamers, so you don't need the fastest 3d card out there, or the fastest memory and cpu chip to burn through your game. Your dual core machine will do just fine chatting on Gtalk, checking email, opening Word documents, and watching Youtube clips all at the same time without any problems. So these companies will aim for system specifications that will satisfy the customer without breaking the bank: solid systems that will do what most people need it to do.
- I (and others like me) are not your personal IT (Jean I am looking at you). Because you paid for their services, they will help you fix your problems, even if it means sending you new computer parts to replace the broken ones. You've already paid for it after all in the initial cost. Furthermore:
- You do not care how computers work, you do not want to know, and for the most part, you don't need to know. I compare this to a car: most people do not want to know how a car works, they just want it to work. But others like me are curious and we take a much more hands on approach. This takes the worry off of your hands. Pick what you like, and they'll put it together for you so all you need to do is plug it in and turn it on.
That's all and good, you say, so what or where should I look for my next pc?
I must admit, I have trouble at this myself. Partially because I build all my computers by hand, so I pick the components up for cheap from the internet and put the thing together myself. However, I had to find a pre built one for my girlfriend, as I did not have the time to put one together for her. Luckily we found a sweet deal for a Dell machine, one that had everything she needed, except for a 3d card which I bought and jammed in their to make it an even sweeter machine. There's no shame if you buy a mostly prebuilt machine for dirt cheap and just change a few things to make it even better ^_^.
If you are looking for decent packaged machines, I have very limited experience, but I can make my recommendations.
- If you want a Mac, stop reading this article and go get one from Apple. You'll be overpaying of course, but we can't stop you there if you're hell bent on conformity.
- If you want just the cheapest system possible with limited support when the parts fry, go Dell. Really? Dell you say? Yes. If you shop Buxr.com or Dealhack.com, there are discounts and specials run by Dell all the time for a decently spec'd system. You can read reviews on their systems frequently on cnet.com and other sites to make sure you're getting good value and reliability. However, I'd like to point out that they recently recieved the lowest score out of all the major computer companies for tech support, so your mileage may vary.
- I like Gateway. REALLY?! WTF? Gateway?!?! Yes, and calm the hell down. We all know Gateway was awful back in the day. They were so awful they were actually put out of their misery by Acer, who bought the brand and basically made everything a hellua lot better. Their systems are pretty good, due to the fact that Acer has been around for a very long time in the background before they started to take over companies like Packard Bell. Acer is actually now the 3rd largest in computer desktop sales after Dell and HP. AND their tech support isn't half bad.
- I don't know how I feel about HP. They make printers, yes, but PCs? I unno, my Uncle works for them, and he owned a Sony Vaio, so...... O_o
- Oh and on that same topic, Sony can kiss my ass. I got screwed over a while back trying to buy an lcd when this girl sold me a Sony Vaio one that had a proprietary video cable....WTF.
Dual Core vs. Quad Core: Is four better than two? Not always. Would you really want four ears?
This topic made me want to slap someone in the face until I could see my prints on their skin. For those of you of the less technical world, you might remember the dark days when most computers had one CPU where all of the computer's thinking was handled. Then came dual core, where your machine thinking was handled by two brains. Then quad core. Now there are FOUR brains running your system. That's good right? Not necessarily. With two cores, it meant the two brains could share work easily. I get one piece, you get the other. Things get more complicated with four cores. Coordinating between four different brains requires applications to be developed with four cores in mind. Most applications aren't being programmed to take advantage of four cores yet. In addition, most people would not be taxing the system enough to merit four cores. Does your computer really run THAT slowly? Odds are, you probably have a virus hogging up most of the resources.
But what about buying a quad core now to prepare for the future?
This is about when I resume my slapping. Why would I get a quad core now for something to happen in the future? Why should I bother paying a premium for my quad core now only to really take advantage of it in a year or two? By then, even faster quad cores would be out, and my quad core would be even cheaper! So no, those of you who are thinking like this, someone needs to rub your face into your monitor and go "NO."
If you bought your quad core for $200 now and in two years show me an app that takes advantage of quad core, I will go out and buy an even faster quad core than yours for half the price you paid. In the mean time, I would be sitting pretty with a cheaper and just as fast dual core, possibly even faster per core than your four.
So there you have it. I got some steam off my chest, and you just got smarter and an entertaining read. For those of you who are reading this for my traveling advice, I am planning on trying to take a plane back and forth a weekend from DC to NYC and back for $130 round trip. Will I make it? We'll find out soon! In the mean time, stay smart and stay cheap.
Monday, August 3, 2009
Pricing updates
So it's been a while since I've bought a lot of my bigger ticket items, and it looks as though things are changing....
Hard Drives
Hard drives have kinda leveled out for now in terms of price. You can get 1 Terabyte of storage nowadays for under $90 easily. A simple lookup on NewEgg proves this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010150014%20103530090&bop=And&ActiveSearchResult=True&Order=PRICE
For those of you without the technological know how to install your own hard drive or make your own enclosure, external hard drives are just as close price-wise:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010150414%20131021336&name=1TB%20and%20higher
Not bad at all. I might start building my new rig soon..
HDTVs
For the longest time, I was convinced I got a great deal. And I have. I love my tv to death ^_^. It's discontinued right now, so you couldn't get the thing anymore if you wanted to unfortunately. Prices for 42 inch 1080p lcds are still hovering around 900 for brand name models, but I've seen some go as low as upper 600s for knockoff brands. I'd recommend finding as many reviews as you can for a tv you want to buy. Also, it seems like if you are okay with a 40inch tv the prices drop $100 off automatically.
Video Games
Haven't bought any new games in a while while simultaneously trading for a lot. Save myself some money while supporting my habit. I am a little pissed however, due to the fact that there are mysterious scratches on the disc of my favorite game at the moment...not caused from the ps3, but from me leaving the disc out....
Headphones
I don't know what it is with DC, but I can't find a decent electronics store in my area (Best Buy STFU). My last running headset broke (note: Skullcandy headphones suck), so I've picked up a set of Phillips clip ons for 18 bucks. Not bad, but they make me nostalgic for my old Sony ear clips, the newest version of which looks like this:
Plus side, you can get them for $15 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR-Q22LP-Headphones-Interchangeable-Headphone/dp/B00008VIX2/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_1
Bottom line? The longer you wait, the better off you are for anything electronic. As time goes on, newer models of things comes out, which makes the older things cheaper. Or newer models could be made both cheaper and better.
New posts? Video Cards, MMORPGS for cheap/free, and more gaming. Got a request? Just ask.
Till next time, stay smart and stay cheap.
Hard Drives
Hard drives have kinda leveled out for now in terms of price. You can get 1 Terabyte of storage nowadays for under $90 easily. A simple lookup on NewEgg proves this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010150014%20103530090&bop=And&ActiveSearchResult=True&Order=PRICE
For those of you without the technological know how to install your own hard drive or make your own enclosure, external hard drives are just as close price-wise:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010150414%20131021336&name=1TB%20and%20higher
Not bad at all. I might start building my new rig soon..
HDTVs
For the longest time, I was convinced I got a great deal. And I have. I love my tv to death ^_^. It's discontinued right now, so you couldn't get the thing anymore if you wanted to unfortunately. Prices for 42 inch 1080p lcds are still hovering around 900 for brand name models, but I've seen some go as low as upper 600s for knockoff brands. I'd recommend finding as many reviews as you can for a tv you want to buy. Also, it seems like if you are okay with a 40inch tv the prices drop $100 off automatically.
Video Games
Haven't bought any new games in a while while simultaneously trading for a lot. Save myself some money while supporting my habit. I am a little pissed however, due to the fact that there are mysterious scratches on the disc of my favorite game at the moment...not caused from the ps3, but from me leaving the disc out....
Headphones
I don't know what it is with DC, but I can't find a decent electronics store in my area (Best Buy STFU). My last running headset broke (note: Skullcandy headphones suck), so I've picked up a set of Phillips clip ons for 18 bucks. Not bad, but they make me nostalgic for my old Sony ear clips, the newest version of which looks like this:
Plus side, you can get them for $15 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR-Q22LP-Headphones-Interchangeable-Headphone/dp/B00008VIX2/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_1
Bottom line? The longer you wait, the better off you are for anything electronic. As time goes on, newer models of things comes out, which makes the older things cheaper. Or newer models could be made both cheaper and better.
New posts? Video Cards, MMORPGS for cheap/free, and more gaming. Got a request? Just ask.
Till next time, stay smart and stay cheap.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Update to traveling between New York and DC....
What was supposed to be a 40 minute or so flight from New York to DC took fscking 3 hours due to being stuck at the airport at JFK...then combined with an hour long taxi back to my house in DC made for a very long trip....
Jet Blue? I don't like you :-(
Jet Blue? I don't like you :-(
Friday, July 17, 2009
Gaming on the cheap....
My Summer So far...
So you might have noticed that this blog died for a bit...I wound up moving to a new project in DC and work has been constant 45 hours plus maintaining an internal website for my company...
...plus a buttload of games.
While I'm no longer required to be on the ramen diet after college, I still need to save money. One of my biggest expenses have been video games (still). I've already invested roughly $300 alone on Rock Band songs (not that I regret it or anything). Still, I have a way to cut corners.
I tried to see if I could avoid paying full price for games this generation. Back in the day, most games averaged in the 40-50 range. Nowadays, with tax, you're looking to spend $60+ on a single game. Quite painful. In addition, let's face it: most of us play games once and we stop. You can't tell me you still play your old games on a regular basis. For every classic game like Katamari Damacy you have Dynasty Warriors 3 (or 4, or 5, etc). You could keep the games, but at $60 bucks a pop, that's one freakin' expensive (and at times shameful) collection you got there. So what are the options available?
Stealing?
No. The return value for selling them is quite high tho if used in conjunction with things like craigslist....not that I'm cool with this or anything...
Buying/Selling on craigslist?
Works but the selection is limited aka, whatever someone bought and got tired with. Even then, while you might get some good deals here and there, people tend to only drop like five bucks off the price. Also, while you might easily find a copy of GTA IV online, it's much harder to find someone to buy your copy of Spongebob Squarepants: The Movie: The Game.
Buying new/used from gamestop?
I'll pass, unless there’s some crazy deal. Even then, you have to remember: somehow they’re making money off this deal, or they wouldn’t hold it in the first place.
Well where else can I supplement my addiction?
One word. Goozex.
...plus a buttload of games.
While I'm no longer required to be on the ramen diet after college, I still need to save money. One of my biggest expenses have been video games (still). I've already invested roughly $300 alone on Rock Band songs (not that I regret it or anything). Still, I have a way to cut corners.
I tried to see if I could avoid paying full price for games this generation. Back in the day, most games averaged in the 40-50 range. Nowadays, with tax, you're looking to spend $60+ on a single game. Quite painful. In addition, let's face it: most of us play games once and we stop. You can't tell me you still play your old games on a regular basis. For every classic game like Katamari Damacy you have Dynasty Warriors 3 (or 4, or 5, etc). You could keep the games, but at $60 bucks a pop, that's one freakin' expensive (and at times shameful) collection you got there. So what are the options available?
Stealing?
No. The return value for selling them is quite high tho if used in conjunction with things like craigslist....not that I'm cool with this or anything...
Buying/Selling on craigslist?
Works but the selection is limited aka, whatever someone bought and got tired with. Even then, while you might get some good deals here and there, people tend to only drop like five bucks off the price. Also, while you might easily find a copy of GTA IV online, it's much harder to find someone to buy your copy of Spongebob Squarepants: The Movie: The Game.
Buying new/used from gamestop?
I'll pass, unless there’s some crazy deal. Even then, you have to remember: somehow they’re making money off this deal, or they wouldn’t hold it in the first place.
Well where else can I supplement my addiction?
One word. Goozex.
Don't let the weird picture/name fool you. Goozex is a very sophisticated online trading site for video games. I've exchanged nearly 40 games on the site and recieved just as many back. Basically, how it works is that games are rated on a scale of 100-1200 to correspond to the demand of the game. New games are usually around 1000 pts, while old games are 100 pts. Users can trade games for points and use those points to trade for other games. Because the points are transferred, they retain the value of the game you traded. You only pay $1 to execute a trade (altho they regularly have specials where you can buy 20 for 10, etc).
So say you bought and beat Resident Evil 5 in a month (like I did). You can trade the game in for 1000 points and let those points sit for a few months. Then when Prototype comes out (which it did), it costs 1000 points and you can use your points to trade for it. Ta-Da!
This can’t be perfect. So what’s the downside?
It's not all roses though. Since it runs via a queue system and supply and demand, in order for you to exchange a game for the necessary points, someone has to accept your offer to get your game for said points. If no one wants your copy of Spongebob Squarepants: The Movie: The Game for 200 points, you won't get those 200 points to spend on another game until someone actually wants it. Also, as with supply and demand, new games that come out generally take a few weeks before the demand levels out. If 100 people are in front of you, it could take a while. It does help you though, as while you wait in line for the game, you can ask yourself: Do I really want this game? Also, the longer you wait most games come down in price. As with anything that deprecates in value rapidly, Patience is the key.
What about scams/ripofs?
All trades on Goozex.com are 100% guaranteed. If a game gets lost in the mail or mysteriously disappears during shipping, Goozex will refund you the points and trade tokens you have spent, and put your request back in queue. In addition, Goozex transfers the points to the seller only after positive feedback is received from the buyer, providing additional protection for your trades. There is also a dispute system let's you work out a resolution with the buyer or escalate the issue to Goozex for review.
So what have I been doing with all of this on Goozex?
What I traded out:
Sonic's Ultimate Genesis Collection
Grand Theft Auto IV
Resident Evil 5
Assassin's Creed
Dead Space
Duke Nukem: Manhattan Project
Skate
Gran Turismo 5 Prologue
Ratchet & Clank Future: Tools of Destruction
Heavenly Sword
Naruto: Ultimate Ninja Storm
LittleBigPlanet (3 copies, don’t ask)
Ratchet & Clank Future: Tools of Destruction
Resistance: Fall of Man
Call of Duty: World at War
Grand Theft Auto IV
Super Mario Galaxy
WWE SmackDown vs. Raw 2009
Super Smash Bros. Melee
Monster Truck Madness 2
Emperor: Battle for Dune
Phantasmagoria: A Puzzle of Flesh
Final Liberation
Rock Band (PS3)
Madden NFL 09
And what did I get?
Buzz! Quiz TV
Grid
Sacred 2: Fallen Angel
Sonic's Ultimate Genesis Collection
Blade Runner
Kohan II: Kings of War
Rama
(The) Red Star
Kohan: Immortal Sovereigns
TЯAPT
Odium
SingStar (game & microphone)
Final Fantasy VII
Warlords III: Darklords Rising
Silent Steel
1701 A.D.
Crackdown
Terra Nova
(The) Eye of Judgment
LEGO Batman: The Videogame
Robin Hood: Defender of the Crown
(The) House of the Dead 2 & 3 Return
Evil Genius
Space Bucks
We ♥ Katamari
Katamari Damacy
Ratchet & Clank Future: Tools of Destruction
Heavenly Sword
Gekido
Front Mission 4
(The) Warriors
Gladius
Fighting Force
Yeah, that’s a long list. And I’ve played most of them (sadly). If I bought these separately, it would have cost me $800+. My total investment for this? Roughly half of that, and I still have roughly $300 worth of points to spare. Right now I’m waiting for my copy of Mercenaries 2, Ghostbusters, Prototype, and Red Faction: Guerilla to arrive.
But what about the cost to ship the games?
Hang on a second. The total cost to send a DVD sized case first class with delivery confirmation is roughly $2.50. It costs me $1.35 to take the Metro one way to the nearest Gamestop (or somewhere to pick up a game on craigslist), plus sales tax if I get it at a Gamestop. Also, if I order a game, it appears at my doorstep so I don’t need to go and get it. Opportunity cost!
So yeah. For those of you keeping track of this blog, this is why I’m so slow to post. And for those of you wondering where my girlfriend fits in, she just got a ps3. And we’re going to the Bahamas :-P
My next article is going to be updating a lot of the older items I’ve been shopping for. Prices for 42+ inch TVs have been dropping, and hard drives, which is not surprising. I’ll break down those prices down later. And you can bet I’ll chat more about goozex later. But now, I gotta go play Sacred 2 :-P
Stay smart and stay cheap.
So say you bought and beat Resident Evil 5 in a month (like I did). You can trade the game in for 1000 points and let those points sit for a few months. Then when Prototype comes out (which it did), it costs 1000 points and you can use your points to trade for it. Ta-Da!
This can’t be perfect. So what’s the downside?
It's not all roses though. Since it runs via a queue system and supply and demand, in order for you to exchange a game for the necessary points, someone has to accept your offer to get your game for said points. If no one wants your copy of Spongebob Squarepants: The Movie: The Game for 200 points, you won't get those 200 points to spend on another game until someone actually wants it. Also, as with supply and demand, new games that come out generally take a few weeks before the demand levels out. If 100 people are in front of you, it could take a while. It does help you though, as while you wait in line for the game, you can ask yourself: Do I really want this game? Also, the longer you wait most games come down in price. As with anything that deprecates in value rapidly, Patience is the key.
What about scams/ripofs?
All trades on Goozex.com are 100% guaranteed. If a game gets lost in the mail or mysteriously disappears during shipping, Goozex will refund you the points and trade tokens you have spent, and put your request back in queue. In addition, Goozex transfers the points to the seller only after positive feedback is received from the buyer, providing additional protection for your trades. There is also a dispute system let's you work out a resolution with the buyer or escalate the issue to Goozex for review.
So what have I been doing with all of this on Goozex?
What I traded out:
Sonic's Ultimate Genesis Collection
Grand Theft Auto IV
Resident Evil 5
Assassin's Creed
Dead Space
Duke Nukem: Manhattan Project
Skate
Gran Turismo 5 Prologue
Ratchet & Clank Future: Tools of Destruction
Heavenly Sword
Naruto: Ultimate Ninja Storm
LittleBigPlanet (3 copies, don’t ask)
Ratchet & Clank Future: Tools of Destruction
Resistance: Fall of Man
Call of Duty: World at War
Grand Theft Auto IV
Super Mario Galaxy
WWE SmackDown vs. Raw 2009
Super Smash Bros. Melee
Monster Truck Madness 2
Emperor: Battle for Dune
Phantasmagoria: A Puzzle of Flesh
Final Liberation
Rock Band (PS3)
Madden NFL 09
And what did I get?
Buzz! Quiz TV
Grid
Sacred 2: Fallen Angel
Sonic's Ultimate Genesis Collection
Blade Runner
Kohan II: Kings of War
Rama
(The) Red Star
Kohan: Immortal Sovereigns
TЯAPT
Odium
SingStar (game & microphone)
Final Fantasy VII
Warlords III: Darklords Rising
Silent Steel
1701 A.D.
Crackdown
Terra Nova
(The) Eye of Judgment
LEGO Batman: The Videogame
Robin Hood: Defender of the Crown
(The) House of the Dead 2 & 3 Return
Evil Genius
Space Bucks
We ♥ Katamari
Katamari Damacy
Ratchet & Clank Future: Tools of Destruction
Heavenly Sword
Gekido
Front Mission 4
(The) Warriors
Gladius
Fighting Force
Yeah, that’s a long list. And I’ve played most of them (sadly). If I bought these separately, it would have cost me $800+. My total investment for this? Roughly half of that, and I still have roughly $300 worth of points to spare. Right now I’m waiting for my copy of Mercenaries 2, Ghostbusters, Prototype, and Red Faction: Guerilla to arrive.
But what about the cost to ship the games?
Hang on a second. The total cost to send a DVD sized case first class with delivery confirmation is roughly $2.50. It costs me $1.35 to take the Metro one way to the nearest Gamestop (or somewhere to pick up a game on craigslist), plus sales tax if I get it at a Gamestop. Also, if I order a game, it appears at my doorstep so I don’t need to go and get it. Opportunity cost!
So yeah. For those of you keeping track of this blog, this is why I’m so slow to post. And for those of you wondering where my girlfriend fits in, she just got a ps3. And we’re going to the Bahamas :-P
My next article is going to be updating a lot of the older items I’ve been shopping for. Prices for 42+ inch TVs have been dropping, and hard drives, which is not surprising. I’ll break down those prices down later. And you can bet I’ll chat more about goozex later. But now, I gotta go play Sacred 2 :-P
Stay smart and stay cheap.
Monday, July 6, 2009
So I might have been out longer than I expected...
Job location change, vacation, graduation...these things have all happened recently, in addition to playing a heap of video games...I'll post a new update soon, trust me.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
new post will be up tonight
I spent the weekend playing RE5 with my gf. I'll explain more later but the post will be cheap gaming. Give it a read tomorrow while you wait for 5 o'clock to happen.
Stay cheap.
Stay cheap.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Requested: External Hard Drives for Dummies
Sorry for my delay in posting. My work has been picking up, and I've basically have been sorta running the show on my project...regardless, I'm back and I'm going through some requests that I've missed...Jean I'm looking at you.
(If anyone is ever looking for some great advice on places to go in NYC that aren't touristy but trendy, check out my friend Jean's blog.)
Alright, here we go.
Hard Drives: The Never-Ending Battle of Storage Space
As with a lot of things on computers, there is a constant need for more. More memory so our programs can load faster, more screen size and resolution to see more stuff on our desktop, more graphics power for our games, more processing power for all the stuff we do on our computers....including games, and more hard drive space to store all of our photos, documents, video, music...and games...
Ugh, I'm such an old man I remember when hard drives were listed in megabytes, and not gigs. The value of hard drives were measured in terms of $$$ per gig. I remember when it was above a dollar a gig. Nowadays, internal SATA hard drives go for less than 10 cents a gig. External hard drives are hovering at just over a dime. Prices continue to drop. Had I made a recommendation before Christmas (like Jean asked me) it would actually be more expensive than it is now by a little bit. In addition, a few months from now, prices will change, and probably for the cheaper. As companies figure out how to cram more space into a hard drive and parts and manufacturing becomes cheaper the price will continue to go down, benefitting the consumer.
So What Should I Look For?
Since prices are constantly in fluctuation, there are some basic things to look for in a hard drive.
External vs. Internal vs. Make your own external
Back in the day, the cost between an Internal Hard Drive and an External Hard Drive were fairly significant. My 120 gb external cost me $150 bucks, while a 120gb internal hovered at around 120. Nowadays the cost between them aren't as bad. This is very helpful for those of you who: A. Don't know how to swap your hard drives in your computer, or B. Have a laptop or want to keep the drive somewhere away from your machine.
In addition, you can purchase enclosures and internal hard drives and combine them together. You can get them in desktop hard drive or laptop drive sizes (3.5 inch vs. 2.5 inch) I know people that keep literal stacks of hard drives, have an enclosure that they plug the hard drive into whenever they need it and store the drive away until they need it again. Probably too geeky for most of you.
Hard Drive Brand
Throughout my geekhood, I have run across die hard fans of certain brands of hard drives. (The fact that there are hard drive fan boys and the fact that they are friends of mine is a scary thought but I digress) Much like my tv recommendation, brands don't matter as much as specific models. In general, I would stick to major names like Maxtor, Western Digital, Hitachi, Samsung, and Seagate. Even then, do check the internet over the model you want to buy. Issues crop up here and there for certain models, like Seagate's Barracuda or Western Digital's 500gb MyBook. Or if we want to keep on this train there's also issues with Maxtor's MaxLine Pro 500 gb. They also don't call Hitachi's Deskstar drives failstars for no reason either. You could try other companies like Fantom too. The bottom line is: Do your research. If there are known issues, they will be obvious online when you type in your model number. If random people bitch about it here and there they might just have isolated issues. But if you see the words well known or widely reported, buyer beware.
For those of you with Macs, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you guys use either one, preferrably Super Duper, which keeps a bootable copy of your ENTIRE system on whatever backup drive you want, which will let you instantly boot up your hard drive on a different machine if your old one kicks the bucket. Time Machine requires the OS install cd and needs to restore itself to a new machine before you can use it. That isn't to say that Time Machine is useless, since it keeps incremental versions of your system, which allows you to find that word doc you deleted yesterday, or even those photos from a few days before. For a better breakdown, check out Shawn Blanc's article on Bulletproof Backups. If you are a geek on a budget though, you can either go it alone, or try out Carbon Copy Cloner, which I have heard is a great alternative if you want something better than Time Machine with the flexibility of Super Duper.
(If anyone is ever looking for some great advice on places to go in NYC that aren't touristy but trendy, check out my friend Jean's blog.)
Alright, here we go.
Hard Drives: The Never-Ending Battle of Storage Space
As with a lot of things on computers, there is a constant need for more. More memory so our programs can load faster, more screen size and resolution to see more stuff on our desktop, more graphics power for our games, more processing power for all the stuff we do on our computers....including games, and more hard drive space to store all of our photos, documents, video, music...and games...
Ugh, I'm such an old man I remember when hard drives were listed in megabytes, and not gigs. The value of hard drives were measured in terms of $$$ per gig. I remember when it was above a dollar a gig. Nowadays, internal SATA hard drives go for less than 10 cents a gig. External hard drives are hovering at just over a dime. Prices continue to drop. Had I made a recommendation before Christmas (like Jean asked me) it would actually be more expensive than it is now by a little bit. In addition, a few months from now, prices will change, and probably for the cheaper. As companies figure out how to cram more space into a hard drive and parts and manufacturing becomes cheaper the price will continue to go down, benefitting the consumer.
So What Should I Look For?
Since prices are constantly in fluctuation, there are some basic things to look for in a hard drive.
External vs. Internal vs. Make your own external
Back in the day, the cost between an Internal Hard Drive and an External Hard Drive were fairly significant. My 120 gb external cost me $150 bucks, while a 120gb internal hovered at around 120. Nowadays the cost between them aren't as bad. This is very helpful for those of you who: A. Don't know how to swap your hard drives in your computer, or B. Have a laptop or want to keep the drive somewhere away from your machine.
In addition, you can purchase enclosures and internal hard drives and combine them together. You can get them in desktop hard drive or laptop drive sizes (3.5 inch vs. 2.5 inch) I know people that keep literal stacks of hard drives, have an enclosure that they plug the hard drive into whenever they need it and store the drive away until they need it again. Probably too geeky for most of you.
Hard Drive Brand
Throughout my geekhood, I have run across die hard fans of certain brands of hard drives. (The fact that there are hard drive fan boys and the fact that they are friends of mine is a scary thought but I digress) Much like my tv recommendation, brands don't matter as much as specific models. In general, I would stick to major names like Maxtor, Western Digital, Hitachi, Samsung, and Seagate. Even then, do check the internet over the model you want to buy. Issues crop up here and there for certain models, like Seagate's Barracuda or Western Digital's 500gb MyBook. Or if we want to keep on this train there's also issues with Maxtor's MaxLine Pro 500 gb. They also don't call Hitachi's Deskstar drives failstars for no reason either. You could try other companies like Fantom too. The bottom line is: Do your research. If there are known issues, they will be obvious online when you type in your model number. If random people bitch about it here and there they might just have isolated issues. But if you see the words well known or widely reported, buyer beware.
Cost
At this point and time, I think the sweet spot for external hard drives is roughly 1Tb for less than $100 bucks. You can pay a little extra for more features, but if you just want simple drive that turns on and off and lets you put stuff on it, anything around $100 is a good deal.
Backing up your system
Some people like to have little things like backup systems built into the external hard drive that automatically back up your stuff. While some work ok like Maxtor's OneTouch for the most part I honestly don't recommend those as they usually require installing some special app that takes up resources or require the use of that app to restore the system. Me personally, I drag and drop all my important files in My Documents (pictures, paperwork, music, video) and Program Files (saved games, configuration files, etc).
While there are tons of different apps for pc, my friend requested help for Mac, which makes the choice easier: most external hard drives don't come with apple-compatible software for backing up, or the programs are crap compared to the ones out there, namely Super Duper and Time Machine. Super Duper is an extra $27, while Time Machine is built in.
For those of you with Macs, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you guys use either one, preferrably Super Duper, which keeps a bootable copy of your ENTIRE system on whatever backup drive you want, which will let you instantly boot up your hard drive on a different machine if your old one kicks the bucket. Time Machine requires the OS install cd and needs to restore itself to a new machine before you can use it. That isn't to say that Time Machine is useless, since it keeps incremental versions of your system, which allows you to find that word doc you deleted yesterday, or even those photos from a few days before. For a better breakdown, check out Shawn Blanc's article on Bulletproof Backups. If you are a geek on a budget though, you can either go it alone, or try out Carbon Copy Cloner, which I have heard is a great alternative if you want something better than Time Machine with the flexibility of Super Duper.
Beyond backup apps, there really aren't too much in terms of raw features for external storage. Security might be an issue, but I would be more concerned about physical security (aka locking it up) than connection security. You could look at something like Maxtor's Black Armor, but if you need that much security, I wouldn't look at this article.
Firewire might be important if you need a dedicated connection for something, or maybe an ethernet connected one so you can share on a network. But those don't come cheap.
Recommendations
So what do I recommend? For barebones and cheapness, I recommend the Seagate FreeAgent 1.5 TB for $130. If you need that security, there's the BlackArmor 320gb for $80. If you need portability, the Western Digital Passports aren't that bad either. Finally, Fantom has a 1TB for just over $100, and the reviews aren't bad at all. Always check prices and reviews. If you need to know the very cheapest hard drive price at any time, you could use pricewatch.com to get a baseline before you start shopping. Remember, always check reviews for the model you're going to buy.
Again, with backups, pc-wise you'll have to look for them because I don't use them. Mac wise it's simpler: Time Machine, but Super Duper if you can muster it, or Carbon Copy if you're cheap.
Next article will be on gaming, since every spare minute I have I spend on that. I haven't bought a new game in a while, but I have amassed a freakin' collection now. Again, if you have a request, just drop a comment or email. Geek smart and geek cheap.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Quick Update: I'm getting killed at work
Sorry guys, but my work has been picking up fast lately so I've been a little behind the ball.
A quick summary of the past week or so:
A quick summary of the past week or so:
- My TV has finally come in. I am 99% happy with it. Resident Evil 5 demo on the PS3 looks amazing. It's all good except for the fact that the bezel somehow mysteriously cracked on the top right corner. I'll post pics of it later, but this is why we have warranties when we first get tvs. As a bonus, I found out the $50 warranty I bought actually kicks in after the initial 1 year warranty from Toshiba ends, so I have 2 years of protection. Now I actually need to get a table or something to put it on, as it is currently sitting on top of the biggest platform in my room, my dresser.
- I've been deluged with video games, with absolutely no time to play them. I'll post a guide on what I've done lately, but as a summary I have picked up Call of Duty 5, Little Big Planet (again), Heavenly Sword, Ratchet and Clank, and some random ps2/ps1 games in the past few weeks, all under MSRP.
Prices on TVs have continued to drop after Super Bowl.
A Dynex 42 inch Plasma 720p tv goes for 600 at Best Buy
22 Inch Vizio for $260 at Geeks.com
If you want bigger, a 50 Inch Samsung 1080p goes for $1195 on Amazon!
There's ups and downs to all, but I am satisfied I got mine at that price. 1080p baby.
In addition, for Jean since I'm awful at this, I'm starting to see 1 terabyte External Hard Drives start to dip below $100 or at least close to it:
Western Digital 1TB for 109 (87.99 if you put in this code on dell.com: 3XQW3BK2SCTG4Q)
Fantom 1TB for $119 (or $80 if you use their rebates on their site)
or even a Seagate 1.5 TB External HD for $150
I'll be a bit more thorough about HD reviews but those are all pretty good sets I think. Check reviews for each online as usual. I'll eventually get to another article when I have time
Stay Smart and Stay Cheap.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Mission accomplished: I got a TV!
So after stressing about this purchase I finally jumped the gun and bought a brand new HDTV. Currently our house has the following tvs:
Me: 2 15 inch tvs (yes i know they're small)
Dude Roommate: 1 15 inch tv
Chick Roommate: 1 37 inch hdtv in her room
Living room: 30 inch standard def tv which is a little long in the tooth, but it still does its job well.
Now, with regular tv, I honestly don't give a damn about resolution and all that other crap. To be honest, I think some people should not be allowed on hi def tv due to magnified ugliness. However, in the realm of gaming and movies, I am one of high definition. I had purchased a ps3 over the summer for myself due to the fact that I love games and will continue to play them long after I am old. I opted for the ps3 due to the fact that I already had purchased several wiis in the past and sold them or gave them to my gf and that the 360 was still in crazy RROD mode at that point (I won't lie, I'm thinking about picking up a 360 soon. Gears of War and other coop games ftw!). Blue ray is also amazing. Watch Planet Earth and then talk to me if you don't think so.
However, being a frugal person that I am, my desire for the most powerful and greatest looking tv was met with shock at some of the prices. However, I think now is probably an awesome time to look for tvs. The market is slowly shrinking due to the economic conditions that we face all over the world. At the same time, these television companies are putting out tvs that need to be sold year after year.
So what's the best plan of attack? Research.
Websites Used: HDGuru.com- One of the most widely trusted websites out there on advice for getting a tv. The owner is very technical at researching his tvs and many geek websites like engadget and gizmodo link to his site. Very helpful if you want to know more about quality.
Amazon.com and Newegg.com - These two, including Tiger Direct, are the only places where I will order online with confidence. Their customer service and prices are second to none. I love NewEgg more due to more geek stuff and more technical reviews, but I tend to avoid rebates with them. Actually, I avoid rebates all together. But that's for another time.
Cnet.com and Consumer Reports blog - These two websites gave me good advice on buying tvs as well, and cnet offers reviews of many of the more popular tvs.
Requirements:
So I had a few things I wanted in a tv:
Screen Size: I was aiming for a 37-40 inch tv. My room is fairly small. I originally wanted to put it in the living room but since I was getting it for myself I figured if I really wanted to share it I could always take it downstairs. Maybe.
Output modes: 1080p, hands down, had to be the max resolution. I don't like regretting purchases later incase 1080p is supported. However, this can be arguable at smaller sizes (see below after these bullet points)
Model Overall Quality: I had to research models that did not wear out in the first few months, were well known and were not prone to bad pixels. God help me if I find a dead pixel *shakes fist*. This is where the reviews come in. Also, you more often than not can't trust the manufacturer with a lot of their data. All that contrast bullshit and refresh doesn't mean a damn until you see it in real life.
Price: I'm still a recent college grad, almost done paying off college loans (I opted to do that now that the market is in a condition I am not willing to throw more money into with my Roth IRA), but I am still paying that debt and thus I need to save money still. My target? Under $1000 definitely, preferrably $800 or below.
I don't care about inputs other than at least 1 HDMI port and my ears are so crap I don't care about audio as much as long as I have something that spits out noise.
The Approach:
-Using the Consumer Reports page, I did some research about tvs and things to spot. I've seen enough of them to know what I want and I am technical enough to know about the regular goofs people make so this was a pretty fast part.
For most people, I would advise that if you find a model you want, go into a store and look for that model of tv and see it in real life. I did not do this part partially because I feel that I've read enough reviews of my tv to be confident in that it won't be total crap and also even if I found a better looking tv in store, you couldn't beat the price I was looking at for it. Also, DO NOT be suckered into buying expensive cables. Do your research. Buying a $10 cable is just as good as buying a $50 one. I would advise doing this part online.
-I kept tabes on sites like amazon, newegg, and deal sites like buxr.com, dealhack.com for hot prices on tvs that were seeing huge price drops. I used those in tow with HDguru.com, specifically it's article on the HDTV Christmas Buyer's Guide, specifically the list of tvs at each screen size and price level. Naturally, since I was looking for a 40 incher, I focused on the Toshiba 40 inch model 40RV525U. THAT was originally the tv I was going to buy.
-I talked to my geek friends about what to get and prices and such. Props to my brother and steve for their advice. Steve was still an ass about it, but I digress. Going to friends gives you a personal second perspective and they might know things you don't.
Conclusion:
This is what I went with: Toshiba REGZA 42 inch 42RV535U And here is why:
Reviews: If you look at the reviews on both Newegg and Amazon, everyone is saying that the quality and output is stellar. 4.5 cumulative on amazon and mostly 5's on newegg. Ignore the idiot on the amazon review who says it doesn't output 1080p, as people have corrected the fool. I tried to google the tv, but I found way more positive reviews about this tv than I did negative. Always google your model number online to find out if anyone has had problems or to get more reviews than just amazon and newegg.
Size: 42 inches! Holy shit! Where am I supposed to put this damn thing?
Output: HDMI, S-Video, yadda yadda, I just want the damn HDMI.
Price: Here's the funny part. Remember how I said I wanted the 40RV525U? That was recommended by HDGuru as the budget TV to get at the 40-42 inch level. But this model is a step up in every way, and more importantly, at the SAME PRICE.
As of this article, NewEgg and Amazon both have the 40RV525U and the 42RV535U at $800, maybe a few bucks more or less for some reason.
NewEgg 40 inch
Amazon 4o inch
NewEgg 42 inch
Amazon 42 inch
However, I found a coupon today due to it being SuperBowl week for $50 bucks off (MMCHTV50) at NewEgg. Also, I picked up a $50 1 year onsite warranty in case something happens in the first year. HDTVs in general do not have high failure rates. Generally if it lasts the year it'll last a while. I wanted onsite because I travel a lot for work, and incase the thing breaks I may not be able to come home to mail the monster out. So for the same price at NewEgg and Amazon, I also got a 1 year warranty thrown in too. Hah!
(Note: I don't usually advise getting extended warranties for TVs. Consumer Reports blog advises against doing so as well due to low failure rates and the standard warranties cover most problems. However, if you look at what I'm paying vs. the cost of the warranty, a 6% cost of hedging the tv for a year ain't bad. If it was more like $100 bucks, I might not have done so. Also, that $50 coupon helped a bit)
Final thoughts and what you need to know if you buy:
I could have walked into a Best Buy and picked either of the TVs up there if I wanted as well. Hell, the 40 inch was also $800 there too! But then I would have had to pay $40 bucks in taxes. The 42 is $1000. And Best Buy isn't held high in my regard due to past experiences. Meanwhile Amazon and NewEgg are both awesome and their customer service is excellent. I'm a little scared of having this delivered due to possible poor handling but I'm hoping it comes through. In the event something breaks, well, that's what the warranty is for.
Things to do when looking for a TV:
-Look at websites for reviews on tvs and advice on what or how to buy.
-Price match on websites like amazon and newegg (use pricegrabber.com if you have to).
-See your tv in real life if you can to see for yourself.
-Ask friends for advice if you can.
-Be flexible and if you find deals on something you like, take advantage of it.
It's okay to wait on things like TVs. Electronic devices become cheaper all the time as they make more and new models come out. Hell, remember that 2 gb Sansa clip I got for $40 a while back? You can get it for $20 now. Beat that Apple.
My biggest issue about getting this tv was more personal than anything else. I haven't bought too many big ticket items before, so getting over that was pretty hard. And with this economy, this may be the only present I'll get myself this year. But oh, man, what a present. Of course, this could all backfire on me. But I think I was careful enough and I can't wait to see this baby.
My review on the tv and reflections on it once the thing comes in, probably next week.
Upcoming things I'm going to blog about:
-Portable Hard Drives because I keep telling Jean I would finish this and I suck. I know.
-Budget gaming because I realize i'm buying too many games. So I'm trading them. Online.
So in the mean time everyone, stay smart and stay cheap.
Me: 2 15 inch tvs (yes i know they're small)
Dude Roommate: 1 15 inch tv
Chick Roommate: 1 37 inch hdtv in her room
Living room: 30 inch standard def tv which is a little long in the tooth, but it still does its job well.
Now, with regular tv, I honestly don't give a damn about resolution and all that other crap. To be honest, I think some people should not be allowed on hi def tv due to magnified ugliness. However, in the realm of gaming and movies, I am one of high definition. I had purchased a ps3 over the summer for myself due to the fact that I love games and will continue to play them long after I am old. I opted for the ps3 due to the fact that I already had purchased several wiis in the past and sold them or gave them to my gf and that the 360 was still in crazy RROD mode at that point (I won't lie, I'm thinking about picking up a 360 soon. Gears of War and other coop games ftw!). Blue ray is also amazing. Watch Planet Earth and then talk to me if you don't think so.
However, being a frugal person that I am, my desire for the most powerful and greatest looking tv was met with shock at some of the prices. However, I think now is probably an awesome time to look for tvs. The market is slowly shrinking due to the economic conditions that we face all over the world. At the same time, these television companies are putting out tvs that need to be sold year after year.
So what's the best plan of attack? Research.
Websites Used: HDGuru.com- One of the most widely trusted websites out there on advice for getting a tv. The owner is very technical at researching his tvs and many geek websites like engadget and gizmodo link to his site. Very helpful if you want to know more about quality.
Amazon.com and Newegg.com - These two, including Tiger Direct, are the only places where I will order online with confidence. Their customer service and prices are second to none. I love NewEgg more due to more geek stuff and more technical reviews, but I tend to avoid rebates with them. Actually, I avoid rebates all together. But that's for another time.
Cnet.com and Consumer Reports blog - These two websites gave me good advice on buying tvs as well, and cnet offers reviews of many of the more popular tvs.
Requirements:
So I had a few things I wanted in a tv:
Screen Size: I was aiming for a 37-40 inch tv. My room is fairly small. I originally wanted to put it in the living room but since I was getting it for myself I figured if I really wanted to share it I could always take it downstairs. Maybe.
Output modes: 1080p, hands down, had to be the max resolution. I don't like regretting purchases later incase 1080p is supported. However, this can be arguable at smaller sizes (see below after these bullet points)
Model Overall Quality: I had to research models that did not wear out in the first few months, were well known and were not prone to bad pixels. God help me if I find a dead pixel *shakes fist*. This is where the reviews come in. Also, you more often than not can't trust the manufacturer with a lot of their data. All that contrast bullshit and refresh doesn't mean a damn until you see it in real life.
Price: I'm still a recent college grad, almost done paying off college loans (I opted to do that now that the market is in a condition I am not willing to throw more money into with my Roth IRA), but I am still paying that debt and thus I need to save money still. My target? Under $1000 definitely, preferrably $800 or below.
I don't care about inputs other than at least 1 HDMI port and my ears are so crap I don't care about audio as much as long as I have something that spits out noise.
The Approach:
-Using the Consumer Reports page, I did some research about tvs and things to spot. I've seen enough of them to know what I want and I am technical enough to know about the regular goofs people make so this was a pretty fast part.
For most people, I would advise that if you find a model you want, go into a store and look for that model of tv and see it in real life. I did not do this part partially because I feel that I've read enough reviews of my tv to be confident in that it won't be total crap and also even if I found a better looking tv in store, you couldn't beat the price I was looking at for it. Also, DO NOT be suckered into buying expensive cables. Do your research. Buying a $10 cable is just as good as buying a $50 one. I would advise doing this part online.
-I kept tabes on sites like amazon, newegg, and deal sites like buxr.com, dealhack.com for hot prices on tvs that were seeing huge price drops. I used those in tow with HDguru.com, specifically it's article on the HDTV Christmas Buyer's Guide, specifically the list of tvs at each screen size and price level. Naturally, since I was looking for a 40 incher, I focused on the Toshiba 40 inch model 40RV525U. THAT was originally the tv I was going to buy.
-I talked to my geek friends about what to get and prices and such. Props to my brother and steve for their advice. Steve was still an ass about it, but I digress. Going to friends gives you a personal second perspective and they might know things you don't.
Conclusion:
This is what I went with: Toshiba REGZA 42 inch 42RV535U And here is why:
Reviews: If you look at the reviews on both Newegg and Amazon, everyone is saying that the quality and output is stellar. 4.5 cumulative on amazon and mostly 5's on newegg. Ignore the idiot on the amazon review who says it doesn't output 1080p, as people have corrected the fool. I tried to google the tv, but I found way more positive reviews about this tv than I did negative. Always google your model number online to find out if anyone has had problems or to get more reviews than just amazon and newegg.
Size: 42 inches! Holy shit! Where am I supposed to put this damn thing?
Output: HDMI, S-Video, yadda yadda, I just want the damn HDMI.
Price: Here's the funny part. Remember how I said I wanted the 40RV525U? That was recommended by HDGuru as the budget TV to get at the 40-42 inch level. But this model is a step up in every way, and more importantly, at the SAME PRICE.
As of this article, NewEgg and Amazon both have the 40RV525U and the 42RV535U at $800, maybe a few bucks more or less for some reason.
NewEgg 40 inch
Amazon 4o inch
NewEgg 42 inch
Amazon 42 inch
However, I found a coupon today due to it being SuperBowl week for $50 bucks off (MMCHTV50) at NewEgg. Also, I picked up a $50 1 year onsite warranty in case something happens in the first year. HDTVs in general do not have high failure rates. Generally if it lasts the year it'll last a while. I wanted onsite because I travel a lot for work, and incase the thing breaks I may not be able to come home to mail the monster out. So for the same price at NewEgg and Amazon, I also got a 1 year warranty thrown in too. Hah!
(Note: I don't usually advise getting extended warranties for TVs. Consumer Reports blog advises against doing so as well due to low failure rates and the standard warranties cover most problems. However, if you look at what I'm paying vs. the cost of the warranty, a 6% cost of hedging the tv for a year ain't bad. If it was more like $100 bucks, I might not have done so. Also, that $50 coupon helped a bit)
Final thoughts and what you need to know if you buy:
I could have walked into a Best Buy and picked either of the TVs up there if I wanted as well. Hell, the 40 inch was also $800 there too! But then I would have had to pay $40 bucks in taxes. The 42 is $1000. And Best Buy isn't held high in my regard due to past experiences. Meanwhile Amazon and NewEgg are both awesome and their customer service is excellent. I'm a little scared of having this delivered due to possible poor handling but I'm hoping it comes through. In the event something breaks, well, that's what the warranty is for.
Things to do when looking for a TV:
-Look at websites for reviews on tvs and advice on what or how to buy.
-Price match on websites like amazon and newegg (use pricegrabber.com if you have to).
-See your tv in real life if you can to see for yourself.
-Ask friends for advice if you can.
-Be flexible and if you find deals on something you like, take advantage of it.
It's okay to wait on things like TVs. Electronic devices become cheaper all the time as they make more and new models come out. Hell, remember that 2 gb Sansa clip I got for $40 a while back? You can get it for $20 now. Beat that Apple.
My biggest issue about getting this tv was more personal than anything else. I haven't bought too many big ticket items before, so getting over that was pretty hard. And with this economy, this may be the only present I'll get myself this year. But oh, man, what a present. Of course, this could all backfire on me. But I think I was careful enough and I can't wait to see this baby.
My review on the tv and reflections on it once the thing comes in, probably next week.
Upcoming things I'm going to blog about:
-Portable Hard Drives because I keep telling Jean I would finish this and I suck. I know.
-Budget gaming because I realize i'm buying too many games. So I'm trading them. Online.
So in the mean time everyone, stay smart and stay cheap.
Monday, January 19, 2009
Quick Post: Obama Inauguration
Just quick post, the main one will be up mid week and it will have my pick of HDTV, plus a quick bit about external hard drives and how to buy one. I've decided to post on a weekly basis, so keep me in the loop if you have requests.
I've been running around DC this weekend, checking out the concert and other events and having a blast with some friends. I won't be attending the inauguration, however, because I don't have a ticket and the travel time will be ridiculous. People going are looking at traveling for at least 3 hours to the mall, then lord knows how long afterwards. Best bet is checking it out on TV.
If you don't have a tv, Lifehacker has a post on how you can watch the inauguration in the safety and warmth of your house/computer.
http://lifehacker.com/5132476/lifehackers-guide-to-catching-the-inauguration-from-anywhere
stay smart and cheap.
I've been running around DC this weekend, checking out the concert and other events and having a blast with some friends. I won't be attending the inauguration, however, because I don't have a ticket and the travel time will be ridiculous. People going are looking at traveling for at least 3 hours to the mall, then lord knows how long afterwards. Best bet is checking it out on TV.
If you don't have a tv, Lifehacker has a post on how you can watch the inauguration in the safety and warmth of your house/computer.
http://lifehacker.com/5132476/lifehackers-guide-to-catching-the-inauguration-from-anywhere
stay smart and cheap.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Requested: Wireless Headphones: Freedom for a Price
I had been trying to put this up for a while, but December-January was a bit of a break from work for me. I got a good amount of extra work done that I had been meaning to get around to, in addition to selling some old games and beating older ones (damn you FFVII). Anyway, I digress.
I promised someone I would do some research on wireless headphones, just to do a bit of webcrawling for fun. However, I realized some things:
-Wireless headphones are a mixed bag for me. I am a cheap person; wireless headphones are generally not as inexpensive as their corded counterparts due to the cost of adding the wireless component.
-However, I am also a lazy person: walking around my house and listening to my music on my computer (not mp3 player) without cables is nice, and also blaring it without bugging my roommates at 3am is great also.
-But in the end, quality wins: wireless headphones sound quality isn't as good as corded headphones due to signal interference.
I noticed my parents had two of them when I came home for the holidays: dad watches his action movies at night without waking my mom and mom can watch her chinese/korean/american dramas without waking my dad or forcing him to watch said drama.
They got these: Sony-MDR-RF960RK-Wireless-Headphones
They're not bad, but I still wasn't impressed and thought they could get better. I think they got these as a gift from my uncle tho, so I can't blame them. And the reviews look okay on Amazon too. But here are some things to look for if you're shopping around for these:
Brand. Any audiophile will tell you the brands that are the best and those same brands apply here: Sennheiser hands down offers the best quality, but Sony puts out many decent headphones as well. Buyer beware though with Sony: they have many models that range from suck to great so look up your specific model carefully.
Infrared, Radio Frequency, or Bluetooth? There are different ways to transmit audiot wirelessly:
-Radio Frequency uses radio waves to transmit to your headset, allowing you to wander up to 100 meters away from the base unit. The downside is that the signal is easily interfered with by cell phones, microwaves, tv signals, and wireless routers. Good headphones will scan different frequencies to find the best channel to transmit with as little interference as possible however.
-Infrared are good for movie viewing or laying in bed. These require a direct sight to the infrared transmitter in order for them to work, but they provide less interference compared to radio frequency headphones.
-Bluetooth seem to be the most varied and work with things from computers to cell phones and have a very high quality output, but you can't use them for a theatre set up, for example.
Use: Are you using it for a movie setup, bedtime, wandering the house, or wandering in general? Bluetooth can be used with any bluetooth enabled device, but you can't easily set it to work with your tv. RF headphones will let you walk around the house, and IR is good if you use them in one specific spot with one specific device and offer a clearer sound. Also, if you buy bluetooth, make sure that the thing you want to use it with is compatible with the headphones. Some headphone makers have headphones that will only work with certain ipods for example.
Price: Adding features such as audio-canceling will also jack up the price like mad. In addition, Infred is usually more expensive than RF.
The safest bet looks to be the Sennheiser RS120 for about $80, RS130 for about $120, or RS140 for about $190 based on your price range. Again, make sure you distinguish between RF and IR, I think these are all RF and I would vote for that only because I could walk around with them on, but be aware that RF gets hissing sounds in moments of silence due to interference.
Headphones are one of the things you can't skip on for good quality sound. You can pretty much buy the crappiest mp3 player out on the market and if you pick up a good set of headphones it'll sound amazing.
Which is why I'll stick to corded headphones, thank you very much. Stay smart, stay cheap.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
