Selling and Buying stuff online: Glyde.com

(UPDATE: New Drama with Glyde. Bottom Line, don't use them yet until I figure out how they deal with missing packages. http://ppgeek.blogspot.com/2011/01/glydecom-you-piss-me-off.html)

I don't quite remember how I got to know this site, but I think it was through some other game traders. Glyde's whole premise differs pretty significantly than that of goozex, which I had previously reviewed (check my archives!).

It's a pretty simple concept for buying and selling:

Selling is simple:
1. List your games/dvds/books online
2. Glyde will send you the package you need to send the product out to the user
3. Wait a couple days
4. Profit with money!!! No points, nothing in the way of cold, hard cash!

Buying is just as easy...


1. Select a game/dvd/book that is listed that you want to buy
2. Glyde will send your request to the seller who will send you the product
3. Wait a couple days
4. You get it!

You will get your money in an account on the site, which you can withdraw and have them directly deposit into your account, or you can use it to buy other products on the site. No points system, and they guarantee all transactions.

I've done three transactions so far with them (possibly a 4th one coming up) and my experience so far was this:

1. The selling process is VERY easy.

But there is one caveat: You can change the price the system wants you to list it at, but there is a high/low limit.
WTF? Really? I mean, I appreciate Glyde telling me it's "above the market price", but it is my item and I should deservedly list it at the price I want to list it at. Generally, this price range is fairly reasonable (I think around 10% upper and below the market price wherever they may find that price at ), but for older or more obscure items, I feel like I should be able to list it at the price I want to since they are so hard to find.

They send you a prepaid mailer and you simply put the game or item in it, then mail it out. It'll arrive to the buyer and in a few days, you get credit for the item you sold. Easy.

Downsides?
1. They take a painful cut. Oh man, for selling a copy of Modern Warfare 2 for example:

They charge 1.25 for the mailer, I can understand since they pay for the mailer AND for postage and tracking. But here's the kicker: They also charge shipping and handling when you BUY something.

Let's take Modern Warfare 2 for example.
As a seller:
-You list the game at $34.50
-Glyde takes a cut of $4.70
-You get $29.80

As a buyer for that very game:
-The game is listed at $34.50
-Glyde charges you an extra $3.47 for shipping and handling.

That means Glyde gets 8 bucks (over 20%) of every transaction total. Shipping and handling I understand, but damn.

In any case, I use it because it's VERY easy to do transactions, there are a fairly large number of people using it, and I can use that money to get other stuff on the site, reducing the painful feeling of reaching for my wallet. Also, I find myself now getting games off of Goozex.com and selling them on Glyde. Helps me mitigate those points which are now steadily creeping up to around $500 worth of credit...


In any case, I recommend Glyde.com, but I'm still a little miffed about the pricing and the amount they charge. These guys really rely on internet traffic for them to survive, and I would think Amazon would be smart to adopt their system for buying and selling used items. Taking advantage of Amazon traffic could be huge for these guys. But still, I like them now the way they are :-)

I have a pretty thorough review of Boltbus coming up, I just need to get some time to clean it up a bit. Also, I'm still gaming pretty damn hard. In the meantime, stay smart and stay cheap.

Buying a PC

So a good friend of mine recently asked for good brands to buy a new PC.

I didn't tell him at the time (tho he'll know now) that I bristled at the thought of buying a new computer. What I mean is, buying a machine already pre built by a company like Dell, Acer, HP, Fujitsu, etc. I'm not saying that they don't work but I am saying this about prebuilt machines:

• You are forced to choose the parts that they provide to you and the boxes are tough to upgrade. Don't need that 6GB of RAM for an additional $120, or that 2nd Disc drive for an extra $30? Too bad, it's part of the package. If there's a cheaper 3D card out there that you'd rather have, you gotta stick to whatever they give you. Also, that tiny box might not fit that new 3d card you want to upgrade, or that motherboard might not support a faster processor when it comes out, leaving you in the lurch.
  
• They build in the cost of labor and services and warranties that you might not need. Sure, it might seem nice that they threw in the 1 year service warranty, but they take it out by adding the cost of that warranty and the labor to put your machine together in the total price of the machine. Generally, and I do mean this generally, 20-30% of the cost of a pre built machine is labor alone (wholesale prices for parts aside).
  
• Their tech support sucks. You know something is fishy when Leonard from Missouri speaks like he just spent all of five minutes learning English. And I'm not criticizing or being prejudice about this either. A lot of those call centers do not have the abilty to really help customers out by expediting the process, or giving actual tech help over the phone. They're just there to process the warranties if they are deemed worth it. (Funny story: in college I worked at a helpdesk and whenever we called in machines, oftentimes they tech supports would ask our Indian ITs for scores of the cricket match of the day, as they were not able to do that at their call centers)

Bottom line is, you're often paying extra for what "they" think you need. There are some benefits to this though.

• They *think* they know what you need, and for the most part, are pretty close. Most of you (and some of my friends) are not hardcore computer gamers, so you don't need the fastest 3d card out there, or the fastest memory and cpu chip to burn through your game. Your dual core machine will do just fine chatting on Gtalk, checking email, opening Word documents, and watching Youtube clips all at the same time without any problems. So these companies will aim for system specifications that will satisfy the customer without breaking the bank: solid systems that will do what most people need it to do.
  
• I (and others like me) are not your personal IT (Jean I am looking at you). Because you paid for their services, they will help you fix your problems, even if it means sending you new computer parts to replace the broken ones. You've already paid for it after all in the initial cost. Furthermore:
  
• You do not care how computers work, you do not want to know, and for the most part, you don't need to know. I compare this to a car: most people do not want to know how a car works, they just want it to work. But others like me are curious and we take a much more hands on approach. This takes the worry off of your hands. Pick what you like, and they'll put it together for you so all you need to do is plug it in and turn it on.

That's all and good, you say, so what or where should I look for my next pc?

I must admit, I have trouble at this myself. Partially because I build all my computers by hand, so I pick the components up for cheap from the internet and put the thing together myself. However, I had to find a pre built one for my girlfriend, as I did not have the time to put one together for her. Luckily we found a sweet deal for a Dell machine, one that had everything she needed, except for a 3d card which I bought and jammed in their to make it an even sweeter machine. There's no shame if you buy a mostly prebuilt machine for dirt cheap and just change a few things to make it even better ^_^.

If you are looking for decent packaged machines, I have very limited experience, but I can make my recommendations.

• If you want a Mac, stop reading this article and go get one from Apple. You'll be overpaying of course, but we can't stop you there if you're hell bent on conformity.
• If you want just the cheapest system possible with limited support when the parts fry, go Dell. Really? Dell you say? Yes. If you shop Buxr.com or Dealhack.com, there are discounts and specials run by Dell all the time for a decently spec'd system. You can read reviews on their systems frequently on cnet.com and other sites to make sure you're getting good value and reliability. However, I'd like to point out that they recently recieved the lowest score out of all the major computer companies for tech support, so your mileage may vary.
• I like Gateway. REALLY?! WTF? Gateway?!?! Yes, and calm the hell down. We all know Gateway was awful back in the day. They were so awful they were actually put out of their misery by Acer, who bought the brand and basically made everything a hellua lot better. Their systems are pretty good, due to the fact that Acer has been around for a very long time in the background before they started to take over companies like Packard Bell. Acer is actually now the 3rd largest in computer desktop sales after Dell and HP. AND their tech support isn't half bad.
• I don't know how I feel about HP. They make printers, yes, but PCs? I unno, my Uncle works for them, and he owned a Sony Vaio, so...... O_o
• Oh and on that same topic, Sony can kiss my ass. I got screwed over a while back trying to buy an lcd when this girl sold me a Sony Vaio one that had a proprietary video cable....WTF.

Dual Core vs. Quad Core: Is four better than two? Not always. Would you really want four ears?

This topic made me want to slap someone in the face until I could see my prints on their skin. For those of you of the less technical world, you might remember the dark days when most computers had one CPU where all of the computer's thinking was handled. Then came dual core, where your machine thinking was handled by two brains. Then quad core. Now there are FOUR brains running your system. That's good right? Not necessarily. With two cores, it meant the two brains could share work easily. I get one piece, you get the other. Things get more complicated with four cores. Coordinating between four different brains requires applications to be developed with four cores in mind. Most applications aren't being programmed to take advantage of four cores yet. In addition, most people would not be taxing the system enough to merit four cores. Does your computer really run THAT slowly? Odds are, you probably have a virus hogging up most of the resources.

But what about buying a quad core now to prepare for the future?

This is about when I resume my slapping. Why would I get a quad core now for something to happen in the future? Why should I bother paying a premium for my quad core now only to really take advantage of it in a year or two? By then, even faster quad cores would be out, and my quad core would be even cheaper! So no, those of you who are thinking like this, someone needs to rub your face into your monitor and go "NO."

If you bought your quad core for $200 now and in two years show me an app that takes advantage of quad core, I will go out and buy an even faster quad core than yours for half the price you paid. In the mean time, I would be sitting pretty with a cheaper and just as fast dual core, possibly even faster per core than your four.

So there you have it. I got some steam off my chest, and you just got smarter and an entertaining read. For those of you who are reading this for my traveling advice, I am planning on trying to take a plane back and forth a weekend from DC to NYC and back for $130 round trip. Will I make it? We'll find out soon! In the mean time, stay smart and stay cheap.

Mission accomplished: I got a TV!

So after stressing about this purchase I finally jumped the gun and bought a brand new HDTV. Currently our house has the following tvs:

Me: 2 15 inch tvs (yes i know they're small)
Dude Roommate: 1 15 inch tv
Chick Roommate: 1 37 inch hdtv in her room
Living room: 30 inch standard def tv which is a little long in the tooth, but it still does its job well.

Now, with regular tv, I honestly don't give a damn about resolution and all that other crap. To be honest, I think some people should not be allowed on hi def tv due to magnified ugliness. However, in the realm of gaming and movies, I am one of high definition. I had purchased a ps3 over the summer for myself due to the fact that I love games and will continue to play them long after I am old. I opted for the ps3 due to the fact that I already had purchased several wiis in the past and sold them or gave them to my gf and that the 360 was still in crazy RROD mode at that point (I won't lie, I'm thinking about picking up a 360 soon. Gears of War and other coop games ftw!). Blue ray is also amazing. Watch Planet Earth and then talk to me if you don't think so.

However, being a frugal person that I am, my desire for the most powerful and greatest looking tv was met with shock at some of the prices. However, I think now is probably an awesome time to look for tvs. The market is slowly shrinking due to the economic conditions that we face all over the world. At the same time, these television companies are putting out tvs that need to be sold year after year.

So what's the best plan of attack? Research.

Websites Used: HDGuru.com- One of the most widely trusted websites out there on advice for getting a tv. The owner is very technical at researching his tvs and many geek websites like engadget and gizmodo link to his site. Very helpful if you want to know more about quality.

Amazon.com and Newegg.com - These two, including Tiger Direct, are the only places where I will order online with confidence. Their customer service and prices are second to none. I love NewEgg more due to more geek stuff and more technical reviews, but I tend to avoid rebates with them. Actually, I avoid rebates all together. But that's for another time.

Cnet.com and Consumer Reports blog - These two websites gave me good advice on buying tvs as well, and cnet offers reviews of many of the more popular tvs.

Requirements:

So I had a few things I wanted in a tv:
Screen Size: I was aiming for a 37-40 inch tv. My room is fairly small. I originally wanted to put it in the living room but since I was getting it for myself I figured if I really wanted to share it I could always take it downstairs. Maybe.
Output modes: 1080p, hands down, had to be the max resolution. I don't like regretting purchases later incase 1080p is supported. However, this can be arguable at smaller sizes (see below after these bullet points)
Model Overall Quality: I had to research models that did not wear out in the first few months, were well known and were not prone to bad pixels. God help me if I find a dead pixel *shakes fist*. This is where the reviews come in. Also, you more often than not can't trust the manufacturer with a lot of their data. All that contrast bullshit and refresh doesn't mean a damn until you see it in real life.
Price: I'm still a recent college grad, almost done paying off college loans (I opted to do that now that the market is in a condition I am not willing to throw more money into with my Roth IRA), but I am still paying that debt and thus I need to save money still. My target? Under $1000 definitely, preferrably $800 or below.

I don't care about inputs other than at least 1 HDMI port and my ears are so crap I don't care about audio as much as long as I have something that spits out noise.

The Approach:

-Using the Consumer Reports page, I did some research about tvs and things to spot. I've seen enough of them to know what I want and I am technical enough to know about the regular goofs people make so this was a pretty fast part.

For most people, I would advise that if you find a model you want, go into a store and look for that model of tv and see it in real life. I did not do this part partially because I feel that I've read enough reviews of my tv to be confident in that it won't be total crap and also even if I found a better looking tv in store, you couldn't beat the price I was looking at for it. Also, DO NOT be suckered into buying expensive cables. Do your research. Buying a $10 cable is just as good as buying a $50 one. I would advise doing this part online.

-I kept tabes on sites like amazon, newegg, and deal sites like buxr.com, dealhack.com for hot prices on tvs that were seeing huge price drops. I used those in tow with HDguru.com, specifically it's article on the HDTV Christmas Buyer's Guide, specifically the list of tvs at each screen size and price level. Naturally, since I was looking for a 40 incher, I focused on the Toshiba 40 inch model 40RV525U. THAT was originally the tv I was going to buy.

-I talked to my geek friends about what to get and prices and such. Props to my brother and steve for their advice. Steve was still an ass about it, but I digress. Going to friends gives you a personal second perspective and they might know things you don't.

Conclusion:




This is what I went with: Toshiba REGZA 42 inch 42RV535U And here is why:
Reviews: If you look at the reviews on both Newegg and Amazon, everyone is saying that the quality and output is stellar. 4.5 cumulative on amazon and mostly 5's on newegg. Ignore the idiot on the amazon review who says it doesn't output 1080p, as people have corrected the fool. I tried to google the tv, but I found way more positive reviews about this tv than I did negative. Always google your model number online to find out if anyone has had problems or to get more reviews than just amazon and newegg.
Size: 42 inches! Holy shit! Where am I supposed to put this damn thing?
Output: HDMI, S-Video, yadda yadda, I just want the damn HDMI.
Price: Here's the funny part. Remember how I said I wanted the 40RV525U? That was recommended by HDGuru as the budget TV to get at the 40-42 inch level. But this model is a step up in every way, and more importantly, at the SAME PRICE.

As of this article, NewEgg and Amazon both have the 40RV525U and the 42RV535U at $800, maybe a few bucks more or less for some reason.
NewEgg 40 inch
Amazon 4o inch
NewEgg 42 inch
Amazon 42 inch

However, I found a coupon today due to it being SuperBowl week for $50 bucks off (MMCHTV50) at NewEgg. Also, I picked up a $50 1 year onsite warranty in case something happens in the first year. HDTVs in general do not have high failure rates. Generally if it lasts the year it'll last a while. I wanted onsite because I travel a lot for work, and incase the thing breaks I may not be able to come home to mail the monster out. So for the same price at NewEgg and Amazon, I also got a 1 year warranty thrown in too. Hah!

(Note: I don't usually advise getting extended warranties for TVs. Consumer Reports blog advises against doing so as well due to low failure rates and the standard warranties cover most problems. However, if you look at what I'm paying vs. the cost of the warranty, a 6% cost of hedging the tv for a year ain't bad. If it was more like $100 bucks, I might not have done so. Also, that $50 coupon helped a bit)

Final thoughts and what you need to know if you buy:
I could have walked into a Best Buy and picked either of the TVs up there if I wanted as well. Hell, the 40 inch was also $800 there too! But then I would have had to pay $40 bucks in taxes. The 42 is $1000. And Best Buy isn't held high in my regard due to past experiences. Meanwhile Amazon and NewEgg are both awesome and their customer service is excellent. I'm a little scared of having this delivered due to possible poor handling but I'm hoping it comes through. In the event something breaks, well, that's what the warranty is for.

Things to do when looking for a TV:
-Look at websites for reviews on tvs and advice on what or how to buy.
-Price match on websites like amazon and newegg (use pricegrabber.com if you have to).
-See your tv in real life if you can to see for yourself.
-Ask friends for advice if you can.
-Be flexible and if you find deals on something you like, take advantage of it.

It's okay to wait on things like TVs. Electronic devices become cheaper all the time as they make more and new models come out. Hell, remember that 2 gb Sansa clip I got for $40 a while back? You can get it for $20 now. Beat that Apple.

My biggest issue about getting this tv was more personal than anything else. I haven't bought too many big ticket items before, so getting over that was pretty hard. And with this economy, this may be the only present I'll get myself this year. But oh, man, what a present. Of course, this could all backfire on me. But I think I was careful enough and I can't wait to see this baby.

My review on the tv and reflections on it once the thing comes in, probably next week.

Upcoming things I'm going to blog about:
-Portable Hard Drives because I keep telling Jean I would finish this and I suck. I know.
-Budget gaming because I realize i'm buying too many games. So I'm trading them. Online.

So in the mean time everyone, stay smart and stay cheap.

Requested: Wireless Headphones: Freedom for a Price

I had been trying to put this up for a while, but December-January was a bit of a break from work for me. I got a good amount of extra work done that I had been meaning to get around to, in addition to selling some old games and beating older ones (damn you FFVII). Anyway, I digress.

I promised someone I would do some research on wireless headphones, just to do a bit of webcrawling for fun. However, I realized some things:

-Wireless headphones are a mixed bag for me. I am a cheap person; wireless headphones are generally not as inexpensive as their corded counterparts due to the cost of adding the wireless component.
-However, I am also a lazy person: walking around my house and listening to my music on my computer (not mp3 player) without cables is nice, and also blaring it without bugging my roommates at 3am is great also.
-But in the end, quality wins: wireless headphones sound quality isn't as good as corded headphones due to signal interference.

I noticed my parents had two of them when I came home for the holidays: dad watches his action movies at night without waking my mom and mom can watch her chinese/korean/american dramas without waking my dad or forcing him to watch said drama.

They got these: Sony-MDR-RF960RK-Wireless-Headphones

They're not bad, but I still wasn't impressed and thought they could get better. I think they got these as a gift from my uncle tho, so I can't blame them. And the reviews look okay on Amazon too. But here are some things to look for if you're shopping around for these:

Brand. Any audiophile will tell you the brands that are the best and those same brands apply here: Sennheiser hands down offers the best quality, but Sony puts out many decent headphones as well. Buyer beware though with Sony: they have many models that range from suck to great so look up your specific model carefully.

Infrared, Radio Frequency, or Bluetooth? There are different ways to transmit audiot wirelessly:

-Radio Frequency uses radio waves to transmit to your headset, allowing you to wander up to 100 meters away from the base unit. The downside is that the signal is easily interfered with by cell phones, microwaves, tv signals, and wireless routers. Good headphones will scan different frequencies to find the best channel to transmit with as little interference as possible however.
-Infrared are good for movie viewing or laying in bed. These require a direct sight to the infrared transmitter in order for them to work, but they provide less interference compared to radio frequency headphones.
-Bluetooth seem to be the most varied and work with things from computers to cell phones and have a very high quality output, but you can't use them for a theatre set up, for example.

Use: Are you using it for a movie setup, bedtime, wandering the house, or wandering in general? Bluetooth can be used with any bluetooth enabled device, but you can't easily set it to work with your tv. RF headphones will let you walk around the house, and IR is good if you use them in one specific spot with one specific device and offer a clearer sound. Also, if you buy bluetooth, make sure that the thing you want to use it with is compatible with the headphones. Some headphone makers have headphones that will only work with certain ipods for example.

Price: Adding features such as audio-canceling will also jack up the price like mad. In addition, Infred is usually more expensive than RF.

The safest bet looks to be the Sennheiser RS120 for about $80, RS130 for about $120, or RS140 for about $190 based on your price range. Again, make sure you distinguish between RF and IR, I think these are all RF and I would vote for that only because I could walk around with them on, but be aware that RF gets hissing sounds in moments of silence due to interference.

Headphones are one of the things you can't skip on for good quality sound. You can pretty much buy the crappiest mp3 player out on the market and if you pick up a good set of headphones it'll sound amazing.

Which is why I'll stick to corded headphones, thank you very much. Stay smart, stay cheap.